Author Archive for Jeremy Higgs

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Taming the North

While my Australian friends have been too chicken, last month my parents embraced their "crazy" side and flew half-way across the world to spend a meagre two weeks with me. A gesture for which I am infinitely grateful!

At the Shigar Fort Residence, Shigar

Despite late planning on my behalf, we managed to cobble together a whirlwind trip to Lahore, Islamabad and the Federally Administered Northern Areas (FANA) of Pakistan, accompanied by our driver, Najam, and guide, Aslam. With the intense memories and smells of the trip starting to fade, I felt now was as good a time as any to jot down some thoughts on our experiences up north.

One part of Pakistani culture that I love is the sheer warmth and hospitality of the people. From the day my parents arrived in Lahore, we were welcomed like family by an AIESEC member, Rida, and her mother. An off-hand comment at breakfast about wanting to visit a village resulted in a day-long trip around the Sheikhupura district (outside of Lahore) by a local landlord (the husband of a family friend's daughter, if I'm not mistaken – it always works like this here), visiting farms, villages and local communities.

Girls in Sheikhupura

Hookah

Eventually, we were greeted by such incredible sights as this, taken at the Gilgit Serena Hotel:

Gilgit Serena

As we made our way up the Karokaram Highway, we approached the snow-capped mountains, until we were surrounded by them in the Hunza Valley, a place I like to call paradise:

Hunza Valley

Remarkably, there was full mobile reception in all the towns we visited, which shows you how deep mobile coverage is in Pakistan.

Wandering through the towns of the Hunza Valley, we visited Altit Fort, currently being restored:

Altit Fort

… meandered through the lanes of the adjacent old settlement:

Lanes in the old settlement

… climbed up to "Eagle's Nest" and beheld one of the most breathtaking views I've seen:

Eagle\'s Nest

… and met some of the locals:

Kid

What struck me was the slow pace of life, the fresh air and the serenity in the area – a world away from my life in Karachi and I'm certain from the image my parents had of Pakistan before coming.

Some of my other favourite photos:

Skardu
Shangrila Resort, Skardu

Skardu
Visiting a village in Skardu

Shigar Fort
From the Shigar Fort Residence, Shigar

Shigar
Kids
Kids who couldn't help be curious about the gore (foreigners) walking around

I have few words to sum up the trip, but I hope that now, when my parents hear "Pakistan", they think of the warm people they met, the incredible views and natural beauty, that these memories balance what they see in the news, to show that there is another side to Pakistan.
I only wish more people had the chance to see this country!

Celebrating Eid ul-Azha in Pakistan

Living in a foreign country, particularly one whose culture and society are heavily influenced by Islam, opens up a wealth of new experiences and opportunities like I've never had before. Today was one of those experiences.

Today (9th December, 2008), Eid ul-Azha is celebrated in Pakistan. This religious celebration has a reputation of being a "bloodbath", where animals are slaughtered en-masse. Through various talks I've had with people, the Roof Cafe held at our AIESEC MC/intern apartments and my experiences today, I've come to learn a lot more about the festival.

The act of sacrificing domestic animals (cow, goat, sheep, camel) is meant to replicate Abraham's (Ibrahim in the Quran) sacrifice of Ishmael to God. However, the festival is also about bringing families and communities together, and of charity (zakat – one of the five "pillars" of Islam). For example, the meat from the animals is divided into three parts: 1/3 for the immediate family, 1/3 for relatives and neighbours, 1/3 for the poor. As I was fortunate to witness today (due to the hospitality of an AIESEC member's family here in Karachi), people come and go throughout the day, spending time together and distributing the food.

While the streets do literally run with blood, there's also a strong sense of community, which I appreciate. The strength of my stomach has also been put to the test (and pulled through), and I have a new-found appreciation of the amount of effort it takes to put meat on the table.

There's also a nice feeling, knowing that the people in the shanty town/slum we passed in Gulistan-e-Jauhar probably had their first meal in a while involving meat. I only wish the charity seen on this day continued throughout the year.

I've spared putting the gory photos here, but for more photos (gore alert), have a look at the Facebook album.

Eid Mubarak!

Random happenings

Things have been a bit insane in recent times for me to really put thought into a post (or email friends and family – I'm sorry!), but I thought I'd sum what's been happening with some pictures.

I got sick of not doing exercise, so I've started walking in the evenings in Zamzama Park. It's a lovely view, a little oasis in sprawling Karachi.

On our way to a meeting, I spotted what looks remarkably like a Eucalyptus tree. (Trees are a rare sight in Karachi, let alone a Eucalyptus!)

We're trying to cook more in the MC/intern houses, in an effort to stay away from take-away food. Above is Pandy (an intern from China) cooking one night.

Tabinda stuffing her face one morning at Dunkin' Donuts. :)

Anna, Joan, Tabinda, Katya and myself at the ZabFM studios on Saturday, after an interview. Lots of fun!

The MC team's new favourite lunchtime spot – New Cafe Subhani in Saddar. Delicious Iranian and Afghani food. Mmm!